Tanzania, you certainly have a peculiar way of welcoming visitors! My journey began with a rather… let’s say, assertive welcome from the immigration officials at the airport. The gentleman scrutinising my passport looked as though he would rather be anywhere else, and his stern expression made me question whether I had forgotten something crucial—like my passport. Oh, wait, I did have it. 

The questioning was intense. Why are you here? For how many days? Do you have a return ticket? Where are you staying? Why do you have a South African visa when you are Zimbabwean? That’s precisely why I need a South African visa: to work in South Africa legally. But I wouldn’t dare respond. Nonetheless, I survived the encounter with my sense of humour intact. 

Every corner of this beautiful nation is a feast for the eyes, starting with the Mediterraneo Hotel and Restaurant in Dar es Salaam, where we stayed. Arriving in the early evening, I was enchanted by the lantern-lined pathways leading to our rooms. The soft glow of the lanterns created an inviting ambiance, setting the tone for a relaxing stay. The sound of waves gently lapping against the shore added to the serene atmosphere, with the distant hum of the sea in the background. 

The primary reason for our visit was an academic conference titled Seeds of Change: Planetary Health and Reproduction in Africa at the University of Dar es Salaam, organised by the Re-imagining Reproduction project. The conference brought together brilliant minds discussing pressing issues like climate change and planetary health. The energy was electric, and I thoroughly enjoyed hearing the latest research and insights from scholars across Africa.

After the two-day conference, we explored the vibrant city of Dar es Salaam. A visit to the bustling Kariakoo Market was sensory overload in the best possible way! The colourful displays of fresh produce, the sounds of lively haggling, and the aromas of street food all combined to create an unforgettable experience. The bajajis (tricycles) crisscrossing the streets—often disregarding traffic rules—meant one had to be cautious. On the roads, the overcrowded dala-dalas (minibuses) made their way from one point to another, serving as the preferred and cheapest mode of transport for locals.

And the food? Oh, the food! I fell in love with the delicious ugali (pap) and sukuma wiki (vegetable) dishes. The kitimoto (pork braai) and mbuzi choma (goat braai) were an absolute delight.

My visits to Bagamoyo and Zanzibar were absolute highlights! Bagamoyo, a coastal town, derives its name from the Swahili phrase “Bwaga-Moyo,” which translates to “Lay down your heart.” This phrase reflects Bagamoyo’s history as a major stop on the slave trade routes, where captives were loaded onto ships bound for Zanzibar. Strolling along the historic waterfront, I was captivated by the old slave trade routes, German colonial architecture, and vibrant local markets that contributed to the town’s unique charm. 

Then there was Zanzibar—Stone Town, to be precise. The narrow alleys, bustling markets (where speaking English could triple the prices), and stunning architecture left me in awe. I marvelled at the iconic House of Wonders, explored the vibrant Darajani Market, and sampled the local cuisine.

But the true treasure of Tanzania lies in its people—so warm, welcoming, and eager to share their stories and traditions. I learned a great deal about the Maasai culture, Swahili heritage, and the rich history of this incredible nation.

The bumpy ferry ride from Zanzibar to Dar es Salaam was quite an adventure—though not always smooth sailing. The Indian Ocean was choppy, and strong winds caused the ferry to rock and sway, leaving half of the passengers feeling ill from the motion.

As a first-time visitor to Tanzania, I loved every minute of it. Tanzania, you’re a complex soul, and I’m so grateful to have met you.